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Monday, November 11, 2013

1825 Dress-Coat test run

I ought to have posted this earlier, since I put together this muslin/toile of the 1825 men's coat from Cut of Men's Clothes shortly after scaling up the pattern a couple weeks ago.

The only adjustment I made was to the collar at the center back, as the collar was originally too large to fit into the neckline properly.  The collar is too large in the diagram in the book as well, so it wasn't just me being sloppy with the scaling things up... as it was, I had to take a total of nearly four inches out of the collar for it to work properly.

The coat is quite small, too.  As a matter of fact, it fits me pretty well which makes me wonder about the person who owned the orginal!  Perhaps I'll have to make myself a tailcoat sometime in future...





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4 comments:

  1. AbigaelNovember 12, 2013 at 9:31 AM

    Hi Gwendolyn! I don't think I have ever commented before but I am coming out of hiding for this one.

    I made a version of this coat (modifying it slightly to maintain accuracy for a slightly earlier year). Question for you - what do you think about the back-shoulder width of this pattern? It seemed super wide to me for the time period, but I am not as familiar with the Romantic/1820-30s era.

    Also, glad you noted the collar issue. I ended up drafting my own collar on the fly but was planning on revisiting this coat with the proper collar. I will triple-check the measurements and draft it a little differently based on your notes!

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    1. GwendolynNovember 12, 2013 at 12:25 PM

      Thanks for commenting. :)

      To be honest, it never even crossed my mind that there was anything strange about back-shoulder width... based on what I've seen, I think the proportioning is fairly typical for that era.

      And yeah, there's definitely collar issues in the original pattern, but at least it's a pretty easy fix!

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  2. Matt NunnMay 20, 2014 at 1:52 PM

    You'll find that the center back blade width across the back is indeed not like today's coats. It may look like a mistake in the cut/pattern; however, this cut pinches the shoulder blades together and thrusts the chest forward when worn so the proper silhouette is achieved by the wearer.

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  3. GwendolynMay 20, 2014 at 4:34 PM

    Exactly, the cut of the back seems quite normal for that time period and does aid in the overall silhouette and personal carriage of the wearer. The only odd thing I found with the pattern is that the width of the collar doesn't match the width of the neck... but aside from that, it's great!

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